Map of the Camino de Norte

Friday, July 08, 2005

Novellana - Luarca

14.75 walking, bused from Cadavedo

From our adventure yesterday through the bushes, Rod & discussed the walking through brambles. Little did I expect that we would come across this so soon. Just out of Novellana we took a forest track to the next town. It was so overgrown, we were getting so many scrapes. Rod got the real the brunt of it. I was wiping blood off both of us after that trek, through to Castañeiras. It was so tiring, after walking down a valley, then up again. I thought that must have been the worst for the day.

We then took a track, which looked good, descended into a vallley, which then yielded walking over streams, wet ground and more brambles. We then had a major ascend up towards the road. Going through one bush, I got a big gash above my knees. We also had tiny ticks on our legs.



We had a pleasant road walk into Santa Marina. We stopped for our morning coffee at the recommended bar where we had our pilgrim credential stamped. I cleaned off my newly scraped legs, over a good cuppa coffee and cakes.

We had a pleasant walk to Ballota, which lead down to the beach. It was too early and cold to swim. But we could still see the remains of the black desposits on rocks after the oil sinker 2 years back.

The walk lead through beautilful forest area, which was a steep, steep climb through forested area. My Rod commented that if he wasn't so tired, he could appreciate this forest more. So true.



As we made our way up to the smalll village of Tablizo, we decided to walk via road to the next village of Ribón. We met a kind Spanish cyclist who said we could walk via Road all the way to Cadavedo. But the guidebook mentioned this great alternative route, which I so wanted to take. But alas, could not find it. So we followed the arrows. Fortunately we did, because it ended up being this great short cut, by going steeply down a forest track. We then had this major climb up a village path to the road of Cadavedo.

Rod had bought a great (*** gift - can´t disclose now as Dad will read ***) for Dad from Cadillero, which was weighing down his backpack. So we decided to bus into our next stop of Luarca, as it had a postoffice. So we had an early day of walking. We found this great little family bar. The daughter, Tamarra was so helpful in giving us directions, bus times and general chatting away. She only knew about 5 English words. We had a great Menu de Dias (menu of the day). We just relaxed sitting in their patio. A group of pilgrims walked in to look for the key to the Albergue. An older, smiling Austrian who has walked 3000kms, a gentle, quiet french man and a younger, macho-type guy, who look like the type of group that are trudging a good 30km max a day, in pursuit of doing their camino. We offered for them to join us, but they were off to the playa (beach). For postre (desert) we asked Tamarra in our pigeon Spanish what she recommended. She was so proud of her Mama's homebakes. We had her Mama's lemon souffle & cheese cake. Oh mama it was so good!

In Luarca, we decided to try the Albergue. Luarca is a harbour town, that is embedded in the valley of hills. Really beautiful, but a killer of hills to walk up with a backpack. So after a hellish walk, we decided we didn't like the Albergue. On our way back down the hill, we met new friends. German couple, Harold and Gertrud, with Gertruds Aunt, Maria. We chatted away down the hill, found a pension, had coffee and arranged to meet that night for tapa's.




I love this about pilgrim walking, is the new friends you meet. During one's travel, we weave into each others walk and enjoy the fun of a new friendship.

Harold speaks good Spanish. This camino was their third year of walking the northern route. Something that many pilgrims do, is walk part of the camino, then return later to complete another section, until they complete.

Harold told us an interesting story. In Cadavedo the town had green banners/markers everywhere. The mayor was in talks to sell a part of the town to an overseas investor, in the interest of promoting Cadevedo. It meant relocating families and changing the face of Cadevedo. The town's folk were so upset they resisted and won. In winning, they had a green/rural festival.


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